Dear Chocoholics: You're Welcome. Love, the U.S. Government

This year chocolate lovers whose Valentine’s Day tastes have moved beyond drugstore boxes of Russell Stover have a new option alongside their fair-trade, single-origin bars: heirloom chocolate. Following the well-trodden garden path of tomatoes, beans, and apples, the Fine Chocolate Industry Association, which represents high-end chocolatiers, growers, and retailers, has created an heirloom designation for cacao.

The label has nothing to do with the age or purity of wild cacao—just its flavor. “Heirloom cacao are the diamonds of cacao,” boasts the website of the FCIA, a nonprofit whose members include artisanal chocolatiers and relative giants such as Guittard Chocolate and Scharffen Berger, owned by Hershey.