Pursuits
Seriously Aged Meat and Fish: A Guide to NYC Restaurant Dishes
The latest trend in New York restaurants: Extreme aging for meat and fish. Here, a field guide to the most delicious dishes
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In his pristine walk-in coolers at Eleven Madison Park, chef Daniel Humm strings up Normandy and Duclair ducks for two weeks. That’s enough time to concentrate and ripen flavors, while drawing out excess moisture from their thick, fatty skin. When the meat’s roasted in a convection oven, the skin renders quickly, getting crisp and brown, before a slice of breast is portioned off as the star entree in a 16-course meal ($225).